JKISSI : About every man has one in his closet.  It can be found mixed in with other clothing items or neatly hanging adjacent to other accessories. From remote memories of wearing tacky clip on ties when I was younger; to present day where I carry a slight obsession of purchasing neckties in the most intriguing of colors; the necktie has always been a part of my life and the overall male identity. But one of its more recent, essential uses is to compliment a dandified suit. Originally, the necktie never thought of as a fashion accessory could state ones’ status, occupation and identity. The military is a perfect example of this where Terra Cotta Army would loop silk cloths around their necks. The history of the necktie is just as vivid as the tie itself as researchers state the origin descends from 17th century Croatia.  After the first installment of the series post  “Accessories Are a Necessity,” covering the pocket square, we were well aware that we would have to do another post and the necktie was the perfect choice.

TM Design – J.Crew oxford – 3 sixteen Black Magic Wool Flannel Tie – Black/White braided belt – TM Trousers – Clarks Desert boot

Fit Description : As you all know, I like to play with different patterns. I’m no stranger to them so the purchase of this black and white speckled topcoat isn’t a surprise to many. Details such as the enclosed buttons when buttoned up give this jacket a clean profile. Unfortunately, that detail isn’t visible in this post. One of my favorite ties from the great people at 3sixteen is the wool tie made out of stout material. It’s my preferred width measuring in at 2.5 inches wide. In regards to another accessory, braided belts have once again gained my favor. This came after rediscovering my very own collection locked in an old box in my basement. The functionality of braided belts speaks for itself as adjusting to the correct waist size is just another braid stitch away.

The characteristics of neckties have also changed just as much as the time revolving around the accessory. From silk white-lace bow neck scarves to the simple universal shape we see today. The necktie can become a complex problem only if you allow it to be. I safely assume that every male of age has encountered their own scuffles with the necktie – whether it was selecting your perfect tie width – or having issues tying that much needed knot. The ‘Four in Hand’ knot was the first tying method I learned. It was taught to me by my Dad after my numerous failed attempts

One of my favorite photograph portraits on the Internet depicting a exquisitely dressed family from New York City. First thing I took notice to was the gentleman’s collars and ties.  -  from Scott Schuman’s blog

Below is my collection of ties. The brands vary from Gant, Hill-Side, Tommy Hilfiger, Ralph Lauren and vintage ties which still need to be shaved down to desirable dimensions. That is one of the great advantages of purchasing vintage ties, because they provide you with the opportunity to wear it present day and incorporate your own style into it at the same time.

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Fabric Etiquette: Tweed

Trav:  Tweed is one of those timeless fabrics that has been present in wardrobes for generations. With the recent popularity of tweed, it is no longer the fabric only worn by grandpas and old college professors.
There are three different types of tweed: Donegal tweed, a handwoven tweed manufactured in Ireland, Silk tweed, a hand woven fabric made of raw silk, and of course, Harris Tweed, a luxury cloth handwoven in Scotland.
There is some interesting history behind this fabric: Harris Tweed was originally woven by hand centuries ago by the people of  the Western Isles of Scotland. The fabric was used to battle the blistering winters and later became a source of barter. Rumor has it  that the original name for the fabric was “tweel”, but around 1830, a merchant received a letter referring to the fabric and misunderstood the handwriting to read “tweed”, thinking it referenced the River Tweed in the borders region of Scotland. The name stuck and to this day we call the fabric by the mistakenly given name.

Vintage tweed blazer- Uniqlo oxford- vintage tie- Topman trousers- Tanner Goods belt –  Clarks desert boot

Fit Description : I picked up this tweed blazer for about $10 just a few months ago and, of course, had it tailored. I love it and I’m actually thinking about adding some suede elbow patches to give it a little extra pop. I’m not really a fan of Topman’s quality but i must say that these specific trousers are very well made and the fit is perfect.

Vintage Woolrich coat – Pendleton Shawl sweater – BR Utility shirt – APC New Cure Jeans – Bostonian Saddle shoes

Fit Description :  From time to time you search all over the retail landscape, from in-store to online, looking for a piece that’s just simply not produced anymore. I was exploring eBay for vintage goods, hoping to find something eye catching for an unbeatable price when I came across with this beautiful tweed coat. This vintage Wool rich coat was bought for a single digit price, and although in need of  drastic tailoring, it was another fantastic vintage find.  The slightly over-sized lapels, wide sleeves and unfitting body gave away the piece’s vintage past, but after taking it to our friend/tailor Pablo, the jacket was perfect.

Tweed garments seem to last the test of time and age beautifully especially after witnessing Josh’s great vintage find . The great aspect about vintage finds is that after tailoring the piece’s history is now apart of you.  Pictured below is a young Stephen Frye in a fine tweed blazer.


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JKISSI :  During his academic school years, every male ranging from High School to College feels the necessity to sport a letterman jacket. The one similarity connecting you with your peers in school, whether on an athletic team or not, is that the letterman jacket is  a clothing statement without words; sporting your individual schools traditional colors in style.
Recently, after finding myself a semester into my year-off hiatus from school, I suddenly had the urge to purchase a letterman jacket—so the search ensued… You could find yourself  in a very lucky situation  like our good friend Phillip Annand, who discovered his father’s deep maroon 1980s varsity jacket while rummaging in his very own attic. A great thing about these unique pieces is that each one holds a piece of history. A dilemma that many people  like myself will endure pertains to the fit of the jacket; seeking a slim, sleek fit compared to the more common bulky fit.

Joshua Kissi,Street Etiquette, Varsity jacket, vintage ivy, vintage ivy league jacket, vintage letterman,

The letterman is an American staple that seems to never diminish in style. The letterman as an individual, whether it be in U.S. sports, performing arts or academics, is a high school or college student who has achieved a specific level of participation and/or performance on a varsity athletic team, marching band, or in other school-sponsored performance activities. Originally, letterman jackets were only awarded to elite athletes, but in more recent years they have become more accessible to all members of the student body participating in a school activity.

vintage varsity, varsity letterman, vintage letterman, Joshua Kissi, Josh Kissi of Street Etiquette, bronx, style

Vintage lettermen jacket – Vintage golf tie –  BR shawl sweater – Uniqlo T-ooo &  Corduroy Shirt  - Tanner Goods belt –  Dexter loafers

Fit Description : It seemed I found my “vintage store heaven” when I laid my eyes on this jacket grouped in a disheveled rack of other vintage letterman jackets. I proceeded to try on the jacket and was surprised that it fit flawlessly, almost as if it was made for me but labeled for the “‘63 – ‘64 Trinity Lutheran Playoff Champs”. The mocha-colored body was a hit for me as I’m an admirer of any variation of the color. Recently I have been on the search for various neck-wear to broaden my already growing collection, including this great piece, and the tanner goods natural leather belt is one of the sturdiest belts I have come across and it should build great character with regular wear.

The Brooklyn Circus recently released a fantastic letterman inspired by the  movie Cooley High, which personifies High School life in the 1960s.

Timeline – The letterman sweater was first regularly used by the 1891 “Nine”  Harvard baseball team and was black with a small Crimson ‘H’ on the left breast. Letter sweaters were a predecessor to letter jackets. The letter was usually quite large and centered (if the sweater was a pullover); stripes on one sleeve designated the number of letters won, with a star indicating a team captain.

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Trav: It’s quite literally freezing here in NYC and its now time for us to bundle-up to mask the chill of what seems to be a very dreadful winter. The duffle coat, a.k.a. the toggle coat, is one of my favorites as it is one of the most unique pieces of outerwear; it is also one of the most versatile as the duffle coat goes well with virtually any look. The history behind this coat is actually pretty interesting. The duffle coat first became popular during  WWI by the British Royal Navy and was later modified in WWII. The coat was primarily used by Navy seamen to battle the cold winds and wet environment. After the war, the company Gloverall purchased surplus material from the military and produced their own version of the duffle coat for everyday use. So i guess you can say that Gloverall is somewhat of an originator. I love their coats; I’ve actually been trying to get my hands on their red duffle coat for some time now… hopefully my luck will prevail. Today, many companies have adopted their own designs of the duffle coat, and it seems like everyone, of any style, has a toggle coat tucked away in their closet.

I was on the search for a nice black coat , to the point of losing sleep, when i had the opportunity to purchase this BR Heritage toggle coat at a very reasonable price. I must say, this coat has some of the best toggles I have ever seen. They are made of real rope and are extremely sturdy. The coat is definitely worth the price tag. The only negative aspect about this coat is that there is no hood. Josh is wearing the 3sixteen Duffel Coat- Camel another well made coat that is worth the penny. I love the cut of the 3sixteen duffle, it has a nice slim, tailored cut that fits well with the overall design of the coat. This coat actually comes with a detachable hood, a great idea on their part.

The toggles on the coat were originally designed to make it easy for the seaman to easily remove and fasten the toggles while still wearing his thick gloves. The big over-sized hoods that we still see today on many of these modernized coats were originally designed to easily fit over a seaman’s hat. Some lucky people are able to actually get their hands on an original duffle coat and it’s interesting to hear them speak on how heavy it is (5-7lbs). Obviously these coats had to be pretty heavy and sturdy to protect the average seaman but its still funny at how we pay so much more for so much less.

Fit Details: BR coat, RL shirt, Uniqlo jeans, Sperry x Band Of Outsiders Boots. I got my Sperry boots last winter and didn’t wear them as much as i should have. They are finally being served some justice this winter. I love how they keep the boot shoe design in boot form. I also like the woolly material used to construct the outside of the boot, you don’t see that everywhere. Josh is wearing 3sixteen coat, Topman shirt, A.P.C nc, and some killer boots he got from the army/navy store. Keep your eyes out for a post right here on boots coming real soon.


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JKISSI :  With the new year approaching rapidly it was only necessary to cap off the year, and the future of Street Etiquette, in a grand way.  As many of you are aware, Street Etiquette teamed up with Photographer/Videographer TONE to conduct a  brief video interview with us. Travis and myself sought out to invite some of our closest friends, those that we felt embodied our definition of ’style’, to be part of the video (this was not only relying on the physical element of style, but the integrity and character of all those individuals that influenced us in some way or another).   We pitched the original plan and rundown to TONE; what ended up taking place would be considered one of the most inspirational moments of our lives.  The photographer for the project was Alejandro Perez a good friend of ours who’s photography speaks for itself, it was great working with someone who is on the same wave length.

Genesis of Style –  Coming JAN 2010.. (Full Video)

TONE, photography, Street Etiquette, Genesis of Style, SE , Joshua Kissi, Travis Gumbs, Jerry St.Aubin, Kadeem Johnson, Edwin Osorio, Michael Andrew,

Location in picture  - Harlem


Check out the video teaser below

Michael Andrew, a good friend of ours residing in Harlem by way of Austin, Texas, goes into detail on what the word ’style’ means to him. What I most admire about the video is that he gives his definition of style effortlessly, as if we rehearsed previously. The internet is one of the most powerful engines ever created giving us the ability to link to individuals all around the world simply because we posses  something in relation.  The fact that in the early stages large companies chose to ignore the might and impressionable power of the web displays why many of them are now looking for  ways to get inside a loop that, at this point, is almost closed.



Genesis of Style - Genesis –  ’a coming into being’ or ‘the beginning of’ and when you think of it in relation to style –  ’a way of expressing something that is characteristic of a particular group or period of time’. This “genesis”, so to speak, is not about convincing different individuals to dress similar to us; from the video you can see the variation in style from person to person, but more about a revival of awareness of personal style. This multi-borough video project, starting out in the Bronx, should change the face of Street Etiquette and everyone involved.

Street Etiquette, Theo Martins, Richard Paz, Travis Gumbs, James Jean, James williams,

*From the Bronx to Harlem  to Lower Manhattan to final destination of Brooklyn*

Fit Description3sixteen duffel coat & Billy Kirk Bag - Everyone seems to love this duffel coat it definitely a nice camel wool that is well constructed. The leather bag made my the brothers of Billy Kirk gives off a sleek masculine look and is a great travel bag to compact items inside but at the same time look comfortable.

“There’s a sense that this return to style, or to a consciousness of how you look, is an attempt by young men to recover a set of values that were at one point very much present in American society and then lost.”

- Professor Samuel Rascoff of NYU

Taken from the New York Times article “Dressing for Success, Again.” This is an article I think everyone should read as it talks about the return of gentlemen into style.

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Shoe Etiquette : The Loafer

JKISSI : If you have grown tired of the standard lace up, such as we do from time to time, the loafer is a great starting point to change paths from your usual choices. The loafer isn’t the primary item of choice when you’re thinking of purchasing a pair of shoes over other designs, such as the oxford. The casual slip-on shoe originally made it’s way from Norway in the 1930s and was dispersed all over Europe and took the interest of American visitors. When discussing loafers I can’t help but think about the high-fashion luxury house Gucci expanding on the classic design by placing a gold emblem on the loafer. The loafer is still known as an American classic in footwear whether you choose to fancy the shoe, or rather stay as far away as possible from what some people label as “grandpa” shoes.

Timeline – Originated in 1876, Bass shoes have become an American standard for comfort, durability and their own unique style. The company’s formal name is GH Bass + Co. and was named for its founder, George Henry Bass. Everyone knows the Bass Weejun penny loafer, a company staple.

SE, Street Etiquette, Joshua Kissi, Loafers men style, men style, loafers style, mens loafers, brixton hat, white jeans, penny loafers style

JKISSIBrixton hat – Uniqlo turtleneck – TM 3/4 jacket – Dexter hand-sewn loafers

Fit Description – I should have probably formed a post on head wear prior to this post as I have been on the search for great selections to throw on top of my cerebrum. I came across Brixton, a brand I have known since their humble beginnings back in 2006 when their head wear couldn’t really fit into my then-street-wear-oriented outfits. Yes , I’m in white jeans after Labor Day. For me, this so-called “fashion crime” has polluted some people’s minds regarding what they can and can not wear depending on the season. As you can see, I disregard this traditional notion as it’s outdated. When you think about the loafer who doesn’t think of the late legend Michael Jackson known for his black loafers and white socks accompanied with cropped trousers.
Travis Gumbs, Street Etiquette, Uniqlo Trench, Topman knit scarf, Sebago boat shoes

Trav pictured above with tassel loafers from Sebago

loaf

The penny loafer has been a American staple and classic go-to for decades now. There seemed to be a time when every boy and teenager would wear penny loafers comparable to the sneaker game of today’s generation. It was interesting to learn about what the extra leather slit provided on the penny loafer; from money for the payphone back when dimes were enough to make a call to a simply stylish approach. Even my Dad was pretty convinced to give the penny loafer a chance and change up from his usual selection of oxford shoes. The penny loafer is versatile being the perfect medium between casual and formal.

Street Etiquette, Travis Gumbs, Joshua Kissi, Tassel Loafers, Sebago Tassel loafers, Burgundy loafers tassel, SE, Bronx,

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JKISSI : When thinking of where to begin my leather jacket journey purchase the company Schott NYC came to mind instantly. People may label leather jackets as something trendy or popular, but the truth of the matter is they can never go out of style. The leather jacket is a American classic varying in different styles, colors and lengths. My earliest memory of my first leather jacket was a biker jacket from Vanson leathers which obviously became out of fit within years. Once again I faced the dilemma of purchasing another jacket even with all the information learned it was still a hesitant process. With a new breed of  quality leather jackets being made it can become expensive, but this life time purchase can be worth it in terms of longevity. Similar to a pair of raw denim jeans you would purchase this piece can last for a very long time.  I chose to go with a leather bomber with it’s thick knit wrist and neck bands to keep the body warm during the colder months.  It seems nothing is better than to have a full lineup when it comes outerwear during the fall and winter seasons.

Ralph Lauren Ranger Boots, Jkissi, Joshua Kissi, Street Etiquette, Cookie Boots, Schott leathers, RL Cookie Boots, Ralph Lauren cookies, RL ranger boots

Schott NYC (Schott Bros.) the first company to place zippers on jackets started back  in 1913 by two brothers Irving and Jack Schott in New York City.  The two brothers sought out to produce quality driven products with a function more than appealing to fashion and style world. The company produced garments for the US Military during World War II and continues to produce the classic naval pea coat for the US Navy.  Schott NYC is considered a American classic manufactured right here in the United States, it’s great to see a company withstand many years and still stay true to it’s roots.

Details

JKISSISchott NYC Leather BomberTopman Gray Herringbone cap – GAP Flannel – A.P.C New Cures – Ralph Lauren Ranger Boot – David Z exclusive

Schott NYC were great enough to add a promo code just for Street Etiquette readers – Promo code: Street09 – 15% off reg. priced items – Take advantage guys

Fit Description : – : The Schott bomber was the perfect choice even in the midst of many jackets to choose from, I wanted to stray away from my usual  love for biker style jackets. The details on the jacket were vital to my decision the triple thick collar, multiple zippers on the front and hand warmer insulated pockets were perfect. When it comes to leathers it seems people are more comfortable to pick black, of course going with anything you pair it with. The brown also gives off a classic bomber feeling which I really thought would work well with what I had in mind. New Cures have just experienced their first treatment at the dry cleaners, faded beautifully. Classic Ralph Lauren ranger boots more known as ‘Cookies’ in gray a collaboration with Ronnie Fieg of David Z and Ralph Lauren. I recently wrote a short article on our Hypebeast blog about the Lo-Lifes in correlation with Ralph Lauren.  I know you guys are still awaiting that much anticipated Boot post we’re still working hard on that post.

Biker jackets are probably my favorite style of the leather jacket. Here are a few pictures which I think personify the jacket style.

brandoqq0

lj1

lj2
Chosen Few Motorcycle Club – TheSelvedageYard

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